The history of Estonian flat brooches began in the 17^th century when the baroque style reached Estonia. It added ornaments which are still popular in Estonian traditional jewellery.

In those days it was fashionable to wear a flat brooch. It was a brooch with jagged edges decorated with acanthus or the ornament of flower motifs. (Kirme, 2002)

 

Casted flat brooch with acanthus ornament, ERM 12768	Casted flat brooch with flower motifs, ERM 12799
The photos have been taken at Estonian National Museum.	Photos by Arp Karm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is believed that the forerunner of our well-known flat brooch could be a star-shaped brooch. The findings date back to the 16^th and 17^th centuries. The direct link between a star-shaped brooch and a flat brooch has not been proven yet and it is possible that the flat brooches evolved independently coming out of some goldsmiths' successful designs. (Kirme, 2002)

 

Star-shaped brooch, ERM 19010. Photo by Arp Karm.

Earlier flat brooches were mostly cast. Flat brooches occurred with and without "eyes" (coloured ballotinies). The 19^th century was the beginning of making punched flat brooches which original decor started to change richer and more complex. (Kirme, 2002)

 

Flat brooch with eyes, ERM 8082. Photo by Arp Karm	Flat brooch with punched ornaments, ERM 13964. Photo by Arp Ka

Pärnu was one of the largest manufacturing centre of flat brooches in the 19^th century. M.W.Brackmann and J.F.Baumann, father and son Nagelius were well-known masters in Pärnu. They produced large quantities of flat brooches. Flat brooches were also made in large amounts in Paide and Northern Estonia. There were punched flat brooches without "eyes" in most cases.

Estonian flat brooches are unique personal adornments which are not known in the neighbouring countries or further away. A few copies found on the South coast of Finland were undoubtedly exported from Estonia. (Kirme, 2002).